Jun
17
2012

Ogrethulhu Rising (Plus, new pledge drive).

As all men know, thanks to the benevolent consideration shown me by my most excellent readers I was able to participate in Steve Jackson Games‘ OGRE Kickstarter to the point where I scored the game and a bunch of stuff besides.  But with great wargames come great responsibility: since I asked for the game, and I was given it, I had darn well better play it.  Properly.  With all the respect that the allocation of large sums of money for a wargame deserves.

In this case: that means minis.  Both the acquisition, and the proper assembly thereof.

As it turns out, I did actually have some minis for this game already – which is bizarre, because I never actually did minis before now.  One mini kit that I have is the Ogrethulhu… which is, yes, exactly what it sounds like: a rugose, squamous version of a Mark V OGRE.  Having some free time today, I decided to learn how to glue minis together (yes, I’m that ignorant of the past-time); and now that I have gotten the glue off of my fingers, I am showing off the fruit of my labors.

Obviously, it still needs to be painted.  Actually, first it needs a primer cover – and that’s the big question.  I’m thinking doing this one up in green and yellow; so if I use a white primer it’s going to go cartoon bright, right*?  I’m not sure if I don’t want cartoon, actually… still, do people have an opinion? I have white, black, grey, and hunter green primary; I’ll be using water soluble acrylics for the detail work.

In other news, on the sidebar (and below) you’ll note a new PayPal button:




…hit it, and I promise to spend the funds on OGRE miniatures, as they come available.  I know: aren’t I swell that way?

Moe Lane

PS: No, I have no intention of spending four hundred bucks on a Mark VI.  I’m not insane with other people’s money.

PPS: If you see me at a political convention, feel free to sidle up and ask me about gaming.  Hell, I might even be carrying around a pocket wargame or two from now on.

*I have a PanEuropean panzer set coming in that will be done up in Vatican colors (gold and white) – which will require white primer, I assume.

5 Comments

  • Rob Crawford says:

    Yeah, white primer will always give you the brightest color. About the only advantage you get with black primer is missed areas look intentional.
    .
    I favor using gesso for priming. It’s supposed to be for priming canvas, but thin it 50:50 and it works terrifyingly good on metal. It’s more involved than spray primer, but since it doesn’t involve spraying I don’t tick off my neighbors.

    And don’t forget some purple in there. Purple always struck me as a good Lovecraftian color.

  • Catseye says:

    Another thing that can help the coloration is when the paint is dry do an ink wash to get it darker or brighter depending on what look your going for. Black ink and water for darker and white ink and water for brighter. There are also red and blue ink washes never tried any other colors.

  • Rob Crawford says:

    For outline washes, I really recommend “Magic Wash” — a mixture of Future floor polish and water — and Payne’s Grey pigment.
    .
    Other color washes add “depth” to the colors, helping with shading. Ink washes *REALLY* make colors look richer.

  • Tom says:

    I never, ever use white primer. It brings up all the imperfections of the model/casting itself, particularly with older models. Go with black and maybe a double layer of Vallejo colors for solid coating. If you want some area super-bright, give it an extra brush coat of white paint after the primer.

  • countrydoc says:

    “I might even be carrying around a pocket wargame or two from now on.”

    “Ace of Aces” was an awesome book based game. WWI combat aircraft. Perspective is from your cockpit. Each player picks his flight move (loop, turn, Immelmann, ect…) which determines the resultant page. Can choice assortment of planes. Truly fun game.

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